What to Do in Phnom Penh in 3 Days: River, Palace, and the History You Need to Face

You land at Phnom Penh International Airport, about 10 km west of the river. The ride into town takes 30 to 45 minutes depending on how the afternoon traffic is feeling, and it is your first proper look at the city: tangled power lines, gold-trimmed temple roofs poking up between concrete, street vendors frying banana fritters on the corner.

Sort a transfer before you fly so you're not negotiating fares after a long flight. A private car to the riverside is cheap by most standards, around 12 to 15 USD, and worth it for the air-conditioning alone.

Base yourself near Sisowath Quay. You'll be walking to the river, the Royal Palace, and the night market from there, which saves you a lot of tuk-tuk haggling over the next few days.

Start soft. A late-afternoon cruise from the Phnom Penh River Cruise Dock on Sisowath Quay puts you on the water right as the light goes golden. You pass the spires of the Royal Palace lit up on the bank, fishing skiffs heading home, kids waving from the stilted houses across the confluence.

Most boats run 60 to 90 minutes and cost somewhere around 10 to 18 USD, often with a drink in hand. It's slow, it's quiet, and it gives you the whole shape of the city from the one angle that makes sense of it: Phnom Penh grew up facing these rivers.

Go on your first evening. It sets the tone before the heavier days ahead.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is not an easy morning, and it is not meant to be. Between 1975 and 1979 the Khmer Rouge turned this school into Security Prison 21, where thousands were held, interrogated, and sent to their deaths. The walls are lined with the regime's own photographs of the people who passed through here.

Take the audio guide. It's narrated in part by survivors, and it carries you through the rooms with a steadiness you'll be grateful for. Give yourself two hours and don't rush it.

Entry is about 5 USD, plus a few dollars for the audio. Go early, when the yard is still cool and quiet, before the midday heat and the crowds. Then sit in the shade of the courtyard frangipani for a while before you move on.

The prisoners of S-21 were brought 15 km south to Choeung Ek, one of the Killing Fields. Today it is a peaceful stretch of grass, water, and shade trees, which is exactly what makes it so hard. The audio guide walks you path by path, past the shallow depressions where mass graves were found and the memorial stupa at the centre.

This is the second half of a difficult day, and it belongs right after Tuol Sleng. The two places explain each other. Many visitors fall silent for the drive back.

Admission including the audio guide is around 6 USD. A tuk-tuk from the city, waiting while you visit, runs roughly 15 USD round trip. Dress respectfully, cover your shoulders, and bring water.

After a morning like that, you need to sit down with good food and a cold drink. The riverside Khmer restaurants along and just off Sisowath Quay do exactly this. Order the amok, Cambodia's signature curried fish steamed in banana leaf, and maybe a lok lak, stir-fried beef with a lime-and-pepper dip.

A proper sit-down lunch for two with drinks lands around 12 to 20 USD, which goes a long way here. Grab a table with a river view if you can and let the afternoon heat pass over you.

Take your time. The palace is a short walk away and keeps better in the late afternoon anyway.

The Royal Palace complex, still the residence of Cambodia's king, is all steep golden roofs and manicured gardens. The showpiece is the Silver Pagoda, named for the solid silver floor tiles and home to a life-sized gold Buddha studded with thousands of diamonds.

Dress code is strict and enforced: shoulders and knees covered for everyone. Bring a scarf or a light layer. Entry is about 10 USD, and late afternoon gives you the kindest light on all that gilding.

Give yourself 90 minutes to wander the throne hall, the murals, and the quiet corners of the grounds. It's the gentle counterweight the day has been building toward.

When the sun's gone, Sisowath Quay turns into the city's living room. The riverside promenade fills with evening strollers, street-food carts, and a night market tucked just back from the water where you can dig through racks of silk scarves and knock-off football shirts.

Graze your way along: grilled corn, fresh spring rolls, a fruit shake blended to order for about a dollar. Sit on the grass with the crowd, watch the boats drift past, and let the day settle.

It's an easy, happy end to a heavy day, and everything's within a short walk of the riverside hotels.

Spend your last morning at Central Market, known locally as Phsar Thmey. The 1930s building alone is worth the trip, a pale yellow dome that looks like something from another century, with sun pouring down into the hall. The wings fan out into jewellery, electronics, fabric, and a wet-and-dry market of fruit and flowers at the edges.

Bargain gently and with a smile, it's expected, and you'll leave with a scarf or a souvenir for a fraction of the first price. It's a good spot for a final iced coffee too.

Then it's time to head for the airport. Leave a generous buffer, as midday traffic can be slow, and pre-book your car so the last hour in the city is calm rather than a scramble. If you have one more night and the itch to see the temples, this is the moment to plan a hop onward.